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    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature</loc>
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    <lastmod>2026-02-02</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/sanctum-the-emergence-of-proto-queer-culture-in-gender-non-conforming-1920s-fashion</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
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      <image:title>Literature - Sanctum: The emergence of proto-queer culture in gender non-conforming 1920s fashion. - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/2d230c66-3adb-48f0-bb2f-f10c4d54ce17/new+2.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Sanctum: The emergence of proto-queer culture in gender non-conforming 1920s fashion. - Make it stand out</image:title>
      <image:caption>Whatever it is, the way you tell your story online can make all the difference.</image:caption>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/breed-or-bleed-why-is-the-grindr-user-experience-so-polarising</loc>
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    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/the-sustainable-impact-of-the-illicit-drug-trade</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/eb5634b6-e0b7-4eda-b2b1-24195c139461/Drug%2BWar%2BSpending%2Bvs%2BAddicts.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - The sustainable impact of the illicit drug trade. - Repressive measures are not economically effective; this diagram explains how, although the US government has invested their money into repressive drug control for several decades, drug consumption has not been affected (Dai, 2012). Instead, this funding has indirectly increased poverty and expanded complex drug distribution (UNRISD, 1994).</image:title>
      <image:caption>Repressive measures are not economically effective, the diagram explains how although the USA government has invested their money into repressive drug control for several decades, drug consumption has not been affected (Dai, 2012). Instead this funding has indirectly increased poverty and expanded complex drug distribution (UNRISD, 1994).</image:caption>
    </image:image>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/0e377348-ac8d-4883-8717-34f2c63179e1/Eyewitness-Deforestation--002.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - The sustainable impact of the illicit drug trade. - The illicit drug trade uses clearcutting and slash-and-burn practices to clear areas for crop production of marijuana and coca crops. These methods have led to 290,000 hectares of forest being lost between 2001 and 2013 due to cocaine production (Burns-Edel, 2016). (Burns-Edel, 2016, p.6).</image:title>
      <image:caption>The illicit drug trade uses clearcutting and slash-and-burn practices to clear areas for crop production of marijuana and coca crops. These methods have led to 290,000 hectares of forest being lost between 2001 and 2013 due to cocaine production (Burns-Edel, 2016). (Burns-Edel, 2016, p.6).</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/22318356-7e11-4ccf-8b51-ed86e744a276/1-s2.0-S0301421512002285-gr1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - The sustainable impact of the illicit drug trade. - Common application of indoor cannabis growing facilities responsible for carbon emission</image:title>
      <image:caption>Common Appliances of Indoor cannabis growing facilities responsible for carbon emissions.</image:caption>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/reparation-studio-and-starving-artist-fund-at-nvvworld-show</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/e177c246-33b6-42fc-8e7e-ce837960feec/000029.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Reparation Studio and Starving Artist Fund at NVV.world Show - Reparation Studio</image:title>
      <image:caption>founded by Jessica Jay</image:caption>
    </image:image>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/c9d11413-1b3c-461e-ad9d-1a3c44d2e28e/image-asset.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Reparation Studio and Starving Artist Fund at NVV.world Show - Starving Artist Fund</image:title>
      <image:caption>Founded by Natasha Ovely</image:caption>
    </image:image>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/is-fashion-art</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/98d87654-c4ad-44e6-ba55-8581afac219e/ALEXANDER-MCQUEEN-FALL-1996-RTW-45.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Is Fashion Art?</image:title>
      <image:caption>Alexander McQueen was a designer whose work resonated with people on a spiritual level, as fashion had never done before. His personal life and beliefs are personified in his work, breaking the boundaries of how we view fashion. McQueen's 1996 ready-to-wear collection, Dante, best explores his artistic abilities as a designer and the links and gaps between fashion and art. The model bears a black mask on her forehead; in the centre lies a crucified Jesus. Her shirt has imagery of war and famine, while her denim jeans drip in bleach stains, reinforcing a sexual and dark atmosphere commonly felt throughout McQueen's career. (Ahmed, 2018) The unsettling atmosphere of the collection is further enhanced by McQueen's intense consideration of space, such as the scent of roses drifting in the air alongside Rolling Stones music mixed with helicopter blade noises. The clothes are controversial and unsettling as they play on social taboos such as piracy, criticism of the church, and triggering imagery. (Ahmed, 2018) This attitude is significant in postmodernism, which is known for its controversial nature and for "challenging the boundaries of taste." These styling and aesthetic choices in the clothes also nod to postmodern principles such as anti-authoritarianism, scepticism, and a suspicion of reason. ("postmodernism," 2017.)</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/2ddf4b8e-2cf3-4ae7-b0cc-863437507bd6/8fc73df1a055c7cfb8bcab36ba1d1cca.gif</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Is Fashion Art?</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/c944f4d6-755a-4211-bb6f-80b0b7b8bbce/Table-dress_3285309b.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Is Fashion Art?</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/4a3e3677-efa0-42b1-b4c1-aaabd589d041/f895c3_219f0a162f5d445cab0cd6dd6ae6285d%7Emv2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Is Fashion Art?</image:title>
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  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/mismanagementofstatehousinginaucklandcity</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/blog-post-title-three-36x3m</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/4eff9a4c-74d6-4ea4-a0c1-8c7a4785d435/1642618-715301-35.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Analyzing social sustainable theory of shoplifting and robbery on Karangahape Road.</image:title>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/cfcf55e3-06f8-4966-8931-6e5af6e6ca16/WRWOVDX6CVFNVARYPHKTVFM3L4.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Analyzing social sustainable theory of shoplifting and robbery on Karangahape Road. - CCTV footage captures K'road assault and robbery</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure emphasises the situation's direness as CCTV footage depicts the violent struggle as a shoplifter punches an army and outdoor worker. From Military and outdoor equipment store on K' Road robbed, staff assaulted. by Tan, L, 2022, New Zealand Herald.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/2728315b-08c9-495b-ba03-032e226d8cf8/stats-inflation.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Analyzing social sustainable theory of shoplifting and robbery on Karangahape Road.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Consumer prices haven't been this high in 30+ years; this chart also highlights this isn't a steady incline but a sharp spike that leaves many households unprepared from Consumer Price Index (CPI), by Stats NZ, 2018, CC-by 4.0.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/3301fc9f-3dab-4b64-985e-8b7c663d5bd4/new+screenshot.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Analyzing social sustainable theory of shoplifting and robbery on Karangahape Road.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 3: Perceptions of living in Auckland's city centre The graph above highlights this deficiency of community transmission in the area. It depicts that although 72% of city centre dwellers think the community is important, only 20% felt that there is a sense of community in CBD; From Perceptions of living in Auckland's city centre: 2022 survey of residents, NielsenIQ, 2023, Knowledge Auckland Copyright 2023 NielsenIQ | Auckland Council, New Zealand.</image:caption>
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  </url>
  <url>
    <loc>https://www.schaarsartor.com/literature/measuring-the-impact-of-fashion-micro-businesses-in-aotearoa</loc>
    <changefreq>monthly</changefreq>
    <priority>0.5</priority>
    <lastmod>2026-02-01</lastmod>
    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/3bf54fdf-2757-4523-9ddb-dbb480141ee6/Figure+1.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 1: The full Living Standard Framework depicted above highlights how all these aspects are intertwined in our society, however today we are focusing level 3 of this framework. From Living Standard framework, by Treasury,2021. CC By 4.0.</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/3d262c35-ad76-4b73-8b4a-635ab2eae8dc/Figure+2.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa - Figure 2: Mindful Fashion industry role map highlights the diversity of jobs in the local fashion industry. However, this could have better expressed the impact of local industry through a bubble chart version of this map, using variables such as employment or impact. From Mindful Fashion, 2022.</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 2: Mindful Fashion industry role map highlights the diversity of jobs in the local fashion industry. From Mindful Fashion, 2022.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/12495834-f002-4755-be6b-8f3747cfc69c/Figure+3.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 3: This graph depicting employees in the clothing manufacturing industry in New Zealand Illustrates the depressing decline of local clothing manufacturing, with a sharp decline between 2000 and 2002 and then a consistent downward slide over the next 20 years, with employment in 2022 resting at 1,950 workers. From Employee in the clothing manufacturing industry in New Zealand, by Figure NZ. 2022. CC BY 3.0</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/ed8c84b4-cce7-4313-9d44-622c64140934/Figure+4.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 4: The figure depicts the GDP of textile and clothing manufacturing between 1986 - 2012 and how clothing and textile manufacturing went from generating nearly 10% of NZ GDP in 1986 to 2% by 2012. From New Zealand: GDP % of Manufacturing: Textiles and Clothing, by World Bank, 2013, CEIC</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/39d51f92-784d-423f-b14d-463f564140f9/Figure+5.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 5: A 2016 Survey of Small and Micro business owners highlighted several other barriers to business growth. Main barriers to growth identified by executives of small businesses in Auckland, New Zealand. by Figure NZ, 2016. CC BY 3.0</image:caption>
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    <image:image>
      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/fd5acb02-5e68-42d3-bac1-651d39a792cf/Figure+6.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 6: Celestial Corner Storefront at St Kevin Arcade showcases their alternative fashion, Since opening their store layout has seen through several stages of development. storefront showcases their alternative fashion, Since opening their store layout has seen through several stages of development. From Celestial Corner Storefront at St Kevin Arcade. By St Kevin Arcade, 2022.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/895e46cd-bdcd-44a5-ab76-783973d1d046/Figure+7.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 7: The Swamp Long Sleeve T-shirt is one of the brand's many independent artisan products by Repairing Angels World was created from airbrushed and original artwork. From The Swamp Long Sleeve T-shirt, by Celestial Corner, 2023</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/789ac2d4-b2cb-4be0-b81d-47a5595a69ba/Figure+8.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 8: International-acclaimed Popstar artist Lorde wearing Starving Artists Fund for Viva newspaper magazine. From Natasha Ovely, Sauce, 2022,</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/79995902-4839-43e0-b1f9-37d4685217ee/Figure+9.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa - Figure 9: Starving Artist fund At NZFW in 2019. From About, Starving Artist Fund, 2019,</image:title>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/033c7bd6-20e9-4ada-b130-3ba4534a60a2/V8A0181_c65d4f50-cec6-4c4b-83dd-dae3aab3cebd.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa - Figure 10: Baobei's signature item is the 'LOVE u Pendant' constructed from deadstock beads from her parent shops and NZ-sourced beads. From LOVE U Pendant Pink, by Baobei, 2023.</image:title>
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      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
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      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 13: Edward Henry in Reparation Studios' restored apparel for NVV World's show in 2022. A close-up shot of Reparations Studio's signature visible repairs, which utilise techniques such as decorative darning, stitching, and patching. From repairs, Reparation Studio, 2022.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/e77c087d-41f3-489a-94b5-dfcaa73a5867/IMG_8288--1_750x.jpg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Patch Repair Workshop, is Reparation studio's limited edition zine that is an introduction to modern hand-sewing and patch repair artisan techniques and practices such as patch collage, stitch sampler, and developing a personal stitching style. Her book offers costumers the ability to learn artisan practices as way to extend garment lifetime usage. From Patch Repair Workshop. by J. Jay, 2022, Blue Flower Texts,</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/e2ae26ef-49d1-4440-83dd-c7f94214d1a7/Figure+15.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 15: This model depicts how circular fashion functions as a closed loop model, where apparel can be designed and reuse through this practices. the goal is to increase longevity and garment life usage as a strategy for mitigating resource over-consumption. From What is Circular fashion , by C. Lissaman, 2019, Common Objective</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/9e821e8f-e55d-492e-b3ba-2fbcc439dc70/Figure+16.jpeg</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 16: Reparation Studio's embellished restored apparel. Reparation Studio has strong emotional design consideration and quality control in her work, with some restoration requiring "65 hours of hand yarning" (Jay J, personal communication, November 11, 2022). From repairs, Reparation Studio, 2022</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/6574384bd1ebcd73e6598487/3c50687f-90d2-4a40-a511-611ab5df1d14/Figure+17.png</image:loc>
      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 17: Reparation Studio provides a niche service with a modern approach, with her skillset being one of 190 workers in NZ in this specialisation. From Employee in the clothing and footwear repair industry in New Zealand, by Figure NZ, 2022, CC BY 3.0</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 18: Reparation Studio's Homepage depicts their services as an interactive and personal experience that can offer a new meaningful contribution to one's wardrobe. From Reparation Studio's Website, Reparation Studio. 2023</image:caption>
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      <image:title>Literature - Measuring the Impact of Fashion Micro-businesses in Aotearoa</image:title>
      <image:caption>Figure 23: Celestial Corner lease of St. Kevin markets is a monthly highlight of the broader First Thursday markets on Karaphange Road, where local community can interact with local alternative fashion creators and artists' stalls. From The Celestial Corner Mid-Month Market, Celestial Corner, 2023</image:caption>
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